Wow, had just an unbelievable surf this afternoon.

Truly exceptional, from the very first ride until the final wave, just an amazing session. The first ride was so complete and satisfying that I could have left the water then, but instead I kept catching great little waves. I must have ridden 12 waves and didn’t even sit up on the board once. These were really fun and involved waves that were 80-120 meters long. AND! It was mostly empty, just a few friendly regulars giving lots of space catching waves. Never fell, hair dry, (although it did get a bit wet from a few errant splashes and spray ), wave count in the mid to high 20s probably not in the 30′s but its hard to say really, I kind of started losing count around 23-27 but I could have.

To put it in a bit of perspective, in nearly 30 years of consistent surfing, I’ve only had a handful and a half of hair-dry sessions, where you don’t duck dive, dunk or turtle a wave, with not one fall off into the water nor blown wave, riding out each wave to completion with a clean kick-out and dismount to paddle.

It looked on the surface as a simple average day at Tonggs, most anyone would have thought there was not many waves but there were if you knew where to sit and what to look for. It had a unique combination of a few swells, rising tide, shallow water and strong offshore wind, when all thrown in together made for a compelling surf in shoulder to head high waves.  Beyond Stoke.

Shot a few years ago, you can figure out how big that wave is if you want.